By Larry and Joan Dolinski
Then a soldier ran into the building and up the stairs to unfurl a VC flag from the top floor balcony. The entire palace was interesting to us but most fascinating was the basement command headquarters with its war rooms, communications center and tunnels. This is where the war was directed and managed on a day to day basis.
The bicycling in Vietnam has been an unexpectedly pleasant experience. Despite the chaos on the highways it actually felt safe to be on bicycles. The traffic aside, we are so very impressed with Vietnam. The country is beautiful and so are the people. There appears to be no resentment directed to us because of the "American War." It's the Americans who seem unable to put it entirely behind them. The Vietnamese attitude is that it's behind us...don't look back and let's get on with life. We actually have felt welcomed and liked everywhere we have been in the country.
We were greeted by just about everyone along the way. Besides waving and saying "hello," most of those in motorized vehicles beep their horns and give us a thumbs-up signal as they encounter us. Most everyone in store fronts and homes along the way greet us. The best of it is the children. Individually and in groups both large and small, they flatter us with their unbridled enthusiasm and contagious smiles. They form pretty much an endless chain. On the one hand their presence is a great joy and they have certainly provided an indelible memory for us. There is a dark side however...they provide evidence of an overpopulated third world country with its birth rate out of control.
Even off the roads people are kind, warm, thoughtful and smiling. Here are a couple of examples:
Larry walked into a plate glass door at the hotel and wound up with a superficial cut on his eyelid. Immediately several of the hotel staff came to Larry's assistance and dabbed some antiseptic on the wound. Then they called a taxi to take Larry to the local International Hospital. The doorman accompanied Larry in the cab and minutes later the hotel manager showed up at the emergency room. Larry was quickly examined and treated (did not need stitches) and was released. Later that day, after some sightseeing, Larry returned to the hotel. He was greeted in the lobby by four smiling hotel staff members with a large gift wrapped package for him. It turned out to be a tea set, and was an expression of concern for him.
That same hotel staff learned (from a passport) that one of the men in our group was having a birthday the following day. On that day they sent flowers to his room and then called to thank him for the honor of him having spent his birthday at their hotel.
From Vietnam we are bound for Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore. Then some significant changes take place. The tour manager announced that Odyssey 2000 will be out of money upon our arrival in Singapore.
Each of the tour participants who wish to continue on to New Zealand and Hawaii, as originally scheduled, are being asked for another $3,000. The vast majority of riders has declined this offer. Some will be hanging out in various locations in Southeast Asia, some will go to Nepal, some will go to New Zealand independently of Odyssey 2000 and do self-supported bicycling, and others intend to return directly home.
We were considering doing the New Zealand phase entirely on our own but have now decided to return home from Singapore because of a family concern. As it happens, Larry's Dad has been experiencing some recent health problems. His doctors have twice had him stay overnight at the Beth Israel Hospital in Boston for diagnosis and observation. While Larry's sisters and Dad's siblings have been staying in close touch with the situation and visit him frequently, no family member has been able to maintain a physically close and continuous presence.
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