By Larry and Joan Dolinski
An overnight ferry with comfortable staterooms from Patra, Greece to Bari, Italy took us across the lower reach of the Adriatic Sea, West of the Albanian Coast. These are the waters over which so many Albanian refugees risked their lives recently, attempting to reach safe haven in Italy.
Our three weeks in Italy were filled with diverse and fulfilling experienc1es. We spent quality time amid both ancient ruins and medieval villages, some in the mountains, others along the rugged wave crashing Mediterranean Coast. Like tourists of all eras, we were exposed to beautiful art, beautiful architecture, remarkable food (our axiom is than one cannot find a bad meal in Italy), dangerous Italian drivers, and well meaning but conflicting (and continuously changing) information based on real time hand waving debates whenever one asks a group of two or more Italians for directions.
Our first stop in Italy was at Alberobello, a village famous for its Trullis, which are white stone houses with mortarless conical stone roofs. The village of Trullis give the appearance of something out of Grimm's Fairy Tales. At any moment one might expect to see the wicked witch or an engaging princess in distress. The reasons given for these peculiar structures are varied and include: (1) tax avoidance (taxes assessed on the basis of roof area...and the roofs can be quickly disassembled at tax time), (2) unavailability of mortar, (3) efficient system of rainwater collection for drinking purposes.
Our journey along the Mediterranean Coast began in Scalea. There we enjoyed gentle ocean scenery and relatively flat riding. We invested half a day wandering through the medieval village overlooking the moremodern section of town. While strolling through the maze of narrow lanes and alleys we happened upon a stone archway over a door with thedate 819 AD carved into it.
From Salerno through Amalfi and on to Sorrento is one of the greatest panoramic roads in the world. For approximately 50 KM (30 Miles) the road winds in snake-like fashion along the craggy cliffs jutting out over the Mediterranean Sea. It is definitely not a ride for the timid or the faint of heart, as the road has frequent switchbacks and blind curves and, of course, Italian drivers who act out their macho fantasies by driving in high risk fashion (high speed & passing on blind curves).
Since Larry was the designated driver that day in a rented car, he staged the car at the beginning of the drive, rode his bike up and back along the Amalfi Drive (a reasonably comfortable experience, due to the great maneuverability and minimum road space associated with a bicycle).
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